Khamlia, the village of Gnawa music
A few kilometres from Merzouga, south of the dunes, lies Khamlia: a small village whose people descend from the sub-Saharan African peoples who arrived with the caravans. Its Gnawa music is what makes it unique.
What is Khamlia
Khamlia is a small village a few kilometres south of Merzouga, beside the Erg Chebbi dunes, on the road towards Taouz. Its people descend from the sub-Saharan African peoples who arrived with the caravans, and from them comes the Gnawa music the village is known for today.
Around Khamlia lies the side of the Merzouga desert you don’t see from the road: the black desert, a plain of dark stone full of fossils; the old Mfis mines, where lead was once extracted; the nomad families who still live in tents; and, after the rains, the lake of Dayet Srij.
Khamlia Gnawa music
Gnawa is a spiritual music of sub-Saharan origin, rooted in Morocco’s Sufi brotherhoods. It’s played on the guembri, a three-stringed lute with a skin-covered body, and the qraqeb, iron castanets that keep the rhythm. In 2019 UNESCO inscribed it on the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
What the visit is like
In Khamlia, the musicians welcome visitors into their home with tea and play for them. It’s a short visit, but one of the most memorable moments of the trip.
It’s customary to leave a contribution for the musicians. We’ll explain how it works during the visit.
How to get to Khamlia from Merzouga and Hassi Labied
Khamlia is a few kilometres south of Merzouga and Hassi Labied, on the road towards Taouz, beside the Erg Chebbi dunes.
We go there on our 4x4 excursion around Merzouga: we pick you up from your hotel, riad or camp in and around Merzouga, and confirm the time and meeting point before we set off. It’s private, with a local driver, and there’s no need to ride a camel.
How much time you need
The visit to Khamlia itself is short. On the half-day 4x4 excursion, about 3 or 4 hours, there’s time for the nomad families, Khamlia and the dunes. The full day adds the Mfis mines, the black desert and Dayet Srij, with no rush and a stop for lunch.
With a half day by 4x4 in the morning, the afternoon is free for a camel ride, a quad or a buggy at sunset.
Khamlia and Dayet Srij on the same day
Dayet Srij is a seasonal lake that only holds water after the winter and spring rains. When it does, waterbirds arrive and, sometimes, flamingos. It’s included in the full-day 4x4 excursion, together with Khamlia, the nomad families and the Mfis mines. We can’t promise the water: it depends on the year.
Khamlia on our desert tours
Khamlia is included in the tours that have a full day in Merzouga. And the 8-day 4x4 expedition from Marrakech passes through the village, the Mfis mines and Taouz on its way to the tracks of Ouzina.
The Merzouga nomads
Around the dunes, nomad families still move with their herds and live in wool tents. On the 4x4 excursion we stop with one of them for tea and a glimpse of their daily life. It’s a respectful visit, not a show.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Khamlia?
South of Merzouga, beside the Erg Chebbi dunes, on the road towards Taouz.
Do you have to pay to hear the music?
It’s customary to leave a contribution for the musicians. We’ll explain how it works during the visit.
How do you get to Khamlia from Merzouga?
On the road towards Taouz: the village is a few kilometres south of Merzouga and Hassi Labied. On our 4x4 excursion we pick you up from your accommodation in and around Merzouga.
How long do you need to visit Khamlia?
The visit itself is short. On the half-day 4x4 excursion, 3 to 4 hours, it’s combined with the nomad families and the dunes.
Can you combine Khamlia with Dayet Srij?
Yes. The full-day 4x4 excursion includes Khamlia, the nomad families, the Mfis mines and Dayet Srij, if the lake has water.
What is Gnawa music?
A spiritual music of sub-Saharan origin, rooted in Morocco’s Sufi brotherhoods, played on the guembri and the qraqeb. In 2019 UNESCO inscribed it on the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Is Khamlia included in your tours?
Yes, in the ones with a full day in Merzouga. The 8-day 4x4 expedition also passes through the village on its way to Ouzina.
Where to sleep in the desert
A night in a private tent
If you want to stay longer in the desert, Tassili Luxury Desert Camp has ten tents with private bathrooms in Erg Znaigui, away from the main camp area.
- Ten private tents
- A private bathroom in every tent
- In Erg Znaigui, away from the main camp area